I had three grandparents. My dad’s mom was named Zudeikhah, and she lived in a two-bedroom apartment in Dokki with a tiny kitchen, a tinier bathroom, and a giant dining table that dominated the main room so that almost nothing else fit into the place.
I used to cringe at the glasses of fresh milk placed on the plastic blue tablecloth that my mother tried in vain to get me to consume there every morning, and I did everything I could to avoid making contact with the disgusting layer of cream, which apparently indicated extreme freshness, which never failed to appear - floating on top of the liquid - and clung to the rim when I tried to drink the stuff from the other side of the glass. Not only that, but this mysterious, primitive beverage came not, as the Almighty intended, from a white carton with the image of contented cows in silhouette on the tops of grassy hills, but was poured from the spout of a giant metal jug, strapped to the hunched back of a street vendor that arrived at sunrise, and thus avoided my scrupulous slumbering inspection.
When you stepped out onto the narrow street below, the smell of fresh garbage and produce invaded your nostrils before the sounds of the open-air market down the way echoed between the buildings and rang in your ears. Motorists, who were clearly unfamiliar with the cluttered old neighborhood, tried to make their way down both sides of the single, somewhat paved path, navigating between donkey-drawn carts laden with refuse and the gangs of almost teenage boys in tattered Adidas sportswear who kicked deflated sacks of worn leather between parked cars in pick-up soccer games that never seemed to end. Roosters made their presence known at all hours of the day, perched atop the countless chicken coops on the roofs of beige buildings that clawed towards the blue sky and poked each other with television antennas.
Up the street, a butcher shared the corner with the barber shop where I split my palm open the day I decided to test the efficacy of a straight edge razor after getting a bad haircut that, for some inexplicable reason, had extended to the back of my inflamed neck. Beef carcasses were strung from metal hooks around the windows of the small shop that always made the animals look significantly smaller than the images on the side of my white milk cartons ever made them appear. There was always enough blood in the air to attract giant flies that you learned to wave off rather than try to swat, and those same flies migrated back and forth between the butcher’s and the little juice shop on the other side of the street where I imbibed enough sugar cane juice to ensure a sizeable contribution to the longevity of many a future dental practice.
We lived with my grandmother Zudeikhah, far too many of us between my uncle's entire family and my own, in far too small a space with far too little indoor plumbing for some time, though the frequency with which we moved back and forth to Abu Dhabi made the experience feel more like an extended, slightly uncomfortable slumber party that would years later seem more like some exotic rugged adventure than anything else.
My father’s mother was ninety-five years old when she died. She’d always insisted on living in her own home, and she was in it when, during the first days of the last week of her life, a cold set in and forced her from the apartment and into a hospital bed, where her doctor explained that her body had begun shutting itself down, one delicate, aged component at a time, and that there was nothing he could do to keep her alive.
I was six, and my own mother delivered the news on a strangely somber elevator ride up the eight floors to my uncle’s new place for what I thought was a routine lunchtime visit that was, in fact, a hastily arranged funeral. I always hated taking that elevator. It was undergoing perpetual repairs and the overhead lights, when they worked at all, had an unnatural green hue that never failed to induce a certain nausea that combined with my pre-existing fear that the power would cut out halfway up the side of the building and we’d all plunge in darkness to a horrible screaming death.
I’d always been allowed to take the stairs, and I often raced the car up to prove that mine was the more efficient, though sweatier, method of ascent. On this day, however, I was forced to stand in the corner, counting the floors up while rehearsing my last words and wondering why my mother was avoiding eye contact and looking so utterly trapped.
“Teta El Hagga died,” she finally said.
Until that moment, I had never personally known anyone who’d died, and it was strangely exciting, for about 3 seconds before the confusion set in. I’d watched countless hours of Anime by then, all dubbed in Arabic, all horribly violent orgies of imported carnage and decapitation. Whenever someone died in one of those, they always screamed as their bodies were vaporized or impaled or set ablaze, and I just couldn’t imagine any of those things happening to my poor old grandmother. Besides, to the best of my knowledge, she’d never done battle with alien robots or outer-space, katana wielding ninjas.
“How did she die?”
“She died of old age,” offered my mother, as kindly as one can attempt to explain death to a first grader on an elevator ride.
It was strange, walking into my uncle’s apartment that afternoon. My aunt dressed in black, clutching tattered bits of Kleenex in her clenched fist, glimpses of my cousin bawling on the edge of her bed when I walked by her room to wash my hands. The whole thing was a little more surreal than most days, and it took a couple of hours and a full belly before my little brain began to comprehend the idea that I’d never see my grandmother again.
We never called my grandmother Zudeikhah by her first name. She was Teta El Hagga, which simply meant that she was a grandma who’d made the Pilgrimage to Mecca sometime before I came bouncing along, and if she had any name or identity prior to becoming my private candy receptacle, I couldn’t be bothered to find out about it.
After we moved out, my brother and I would accompany my father on the midday trips to deliver lunch to my grandmother at her apartment. She always wore a sheer white scarf over her hair and a blue dress that draped her entire body so that she seemed to float when she walked across the room. Her skin was pale, and her lips were cold as she greeted us at the front door and enthusiastically took our heads in her hands and kissed us one cheek at a time. Her favorite thing to sneak into my brother’s and my hands when our father wasn’t looking was Jordan Almonds. I hated the things beyond their delicious pink and lavender candy coating, and unlike my brother, who inhaled the things like they were going out of style, I sucked on them one at a time while longing for chocolate, and couldn’t wait to spit out the nutritiously annoying nut center when I reached it, to make room for the next sugary piece. My grandmother would then pull chilled bottles of Coca Cola for each of us, usually while my father’s loud protests that she was ruining our appetites escalated into a full-blown argument about things that seemed far more serious than whether or not I was well prepared to join the ranks of the clean plates club.
There, at the dining room table where my mother had tried to serve me unnatural fresh milk years before, I sat and poured myself short glasses of Coke and pretended they were shots of whiskey, then pounded them back like J.R. on "Dallas" while my father and grandmother talked, and yelled, and sometimes made up before we left to join the rest of the family at my uncle's place for lunch. That we didn’t actually sit down to share the meal we came to deliver usually set off another argument before we were kissed on the cheek, and sent off with pockets full of candied contraband.
I was sitting on my uncle’s balcony late that afternoon, and it suddenly dawned on me that we’d never drop off lunch at my grandmother Zudeikhah’s again. I’d never see the apartment with the too big dining room table on the street that reeked of garbage and fresh produce, nor feel those cold lips kissing my cheeks while pale hands stuffed my own with candy carefully selected and set aside especially for me. My grandmother loved me, and I was never going to see her again.
Later that night, I sat with the rest of my uncle’s family and watched my mother deliver the news to my father over the phone. He was overseas on business and the last conversation I remembered him having with my grandmother was an angry one in that now cold, empty apartment.
My mother spoke in the same tone that she’d later use whenever she informed me that someone close to me had passed away – not some distant cousin that I’d have to think hard to remember, but someone that she knew I would miss. She’d begin the same way on my thirteenth birthday when she’d tell me that my uncle, whose home we were now huddled in, had died of the cancer he kept secret until days before it took his life.
My mother’s voice was steady, strong enough to force the listener to cease all other thought or activity, yet gentle enough to indicate that she understood that the words she was about to utter were going to cause immeasurable pain.
I don’t know what my father said when the words filtered through the receiver he held in another country, or what his first thought was upon hearing that he would never again fight with the only parent he had left. He was the youngest of my grandmother’s children, and the last to share that place with the too big dining room table after all the others had grown up and out to their own lives with their own new families.
I remember my mother asking my father if he was still on the phone, and then telling him to let someone else drive him wherever he needed to get that night. And when she put the phone down I didn’t have three grandparents anymore, and one of the first places I ever called home was gone.
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